Thread: DIY: RNS-E retrofit & double DIN conversion (picture heavy)

DIY: Replace single DIN Concert II headunit with double DIN RNS-E Navigation system.

Heads up from a new member from Norway!
I have been reading a lot on Audizine since I got my first B6 last year, and want to thank all the members for sharing so much useful information.

This spring I decided to do the RNS-E retrofit. I know there's already DIY's on this topic, but I wanted to make a step-by-step guide with detailed pictures, for people tempted to go down this route.

I'm posting this first on Audizine to get some feedback. Let me know what you think!

Disclaimer: I am not a mechanic, and will not take responsibility for anything that may be damaged or broken while using this DIY on your own vehicle. This DIY is intended as an aid only.



Table of contents

- Prerequisites (post #1)
- Removal of the center console (post #1)
- Modifying the center console (post #2)
- Modifying the climate control unit (post #2)
- Installing the double DIN cage (post #3)
- RNS-E installation (post #3)
 
Prerequisites

Single DIN → double DIN

• Double DIN radio cage
  8E0 858 005 C (B6, aluminum) or 8E0 858 005 F (B7, plastic)
• Climate control
  8E0 820 043 BM (B7 model, facia color to match RNS-E)

RNS-E retrofit

• RNS-E navigation unit
  8E0 035 192 D (A4 B7 face plate)
• Quadlock adapter, GPS antenna, Fakra adapter
  Ebay, Kufatec etc.

Tools

• Audi radio removal keys (x4)
• 8mm & 13mm socket, Torx T20 & T10, hacksaw ++
• Flat headed & Philips screw driver

Removal of center console


Use the radio removal keys. Insert as shown.


Pull straight out.


Remove connectors. The yellow plug is a fakra connector.


It might be a good idea to protect your gear knob.


Remove old climate control unit. It pulls straight out.


Remove all connectors from the back of the panel.


Remove the trim surrounding the gear knob. It has 4 clips, 1 at each corner. Pull straight up.


Push to release cover beneath e-brake lever. Remove 2x Philips screws


Remove 8mm bolts securing ashtray. Disconnect the power to the LED illumination.


Remove the cover in front of the ashtray to remove the assembly. It reveals two hidden 8mm bolts.


Remove followings bolts: 2x 8mm bolts below the ashtray assembly. 2x 8mm bolts below gear knob trim. 2x 8mm bolts all the way to the front of the center console (1 on each side).


Remove 4x 8mm bolts securing the center console and radio cage (2 shown in this picture)


Pull out e-brake lever handle. There is a little clip on the handle part that needs to be pushed upwards, in order for it to release. You can then remove the e-brake lever sleeve behind it.


Remove ashtray from rear seats to reveal the bolts securing the armrest and center console. The ashtray pulls straight out.


Use a universal joint to access the 13mm bolt securing the armrest. There are two more 13mm bolts securing rear part of center console.

Lift the center console up and backwards to remove it. Be careful not to scratch the painting on the ESP-button, card tray and cup holder.


The cup holder and card tray has a clip in each corner, securing it in place. Push these down, and use your other hand from behind to push it out. Unplug the connector to the LED.


The hazard button pulls straight out. Remove the single DIN cage. It is secured at the bottom pivot point by two T20 Torx screws.

Continued in post #2

Modifying the center console

There is a difference on single DIN and double DIN center consoles. Luckily, the single DIN can be modified to accept the double DIN cage. This process involves some cutting. Use a hacksaw for this procedure.


This is the piece that needs to be removed. It measures 40 mm x 85 mm.


This flap also needs to be removed.


Test fitting the double DIN cage. Perfect fit.


This piece also needs to be cut in order to fit the double DIN setup.


Use your hacksaw to cut a straight line just after the clips. There is a groove that works perfectly as a cutting guide.


How the finished part should look like.

 
Modifying the climate control unit

The double DIN climate control unit came off a B7, which has a slight difference in the electrics. Instead of having a built in relay for the rear heated window, it sends only a trigger signal to an external relay located somewhere else in the vehicle. It is possible to make the B7 unit work on a B6, but it requires wiring in a relay. Some users have reported that the B7 panel is throwing fault codes on illumination (it stays lit at maximum brightness). I did not bother to experiment with the B7 panel, so I decided to swap the face plates and use my old climate control instead.


Use a Torx driver to remove 6x screws from the back of your old climate control unit. Unclip a total of 7 clips securing the faceplate to the unit.


Remove a total of 8 screws securing the button/LCD board to the faceplate. They are easy to spot.


Remove the two clips securing the dials for heated seats.


Now do the same to the other unit and swap the face plate.

Continued in post #3

Installing the double DIN cage

Put it into place and fasten the two Torx screws on the lower pivot point.


Install the ESP and hazard switch, card tray and cup holder.


Now is a perfect opportunity to replace those old peeling interior pieces with ones from a B7!


Reinstall the center console. Remember to reconnect the 12V outlet.


Reinstall ashtray (remember LED connector) before installing the modified piece in front of it.


This is how it should look like now.


This connector will not be in use anymore. It was connected to a LED on the single DIN cage to illuminate the space in front of the ashtray. Tuck it away.


Center console reinstalled and climate control fitted.

 
RNS-E installation

The installation of the RNS-E is pretty straight forward once the double DIN cage is in place. For cars not factory equipped with navigation, one needs to install a GPS antenna. The following pictures will aid in this installation, and shows all of the connectors to the RNS-E unit.


Use your key to remove the side panel on the driver’s side.


Remove the 8mm bolt to the right in the picture. Here you can also se the preferred location for the GPS antenna, on the metal square just above the fuse panel.


Remove 1x 8mm bolt located near the bonnet release lever. Remove the last 8mm bolt located near the accelerator pedal.


The kick panel is clipped into place along the upper edge. Once the 3x screws are removed, pull towards the driver’s seat, and it will come loose.


Showing the localization of the GPS antenna. Guide the antenna cable over the steering column towards the center console. The GPS antenna has a magnetic base, but I also added double-sided adhesive to secure it firmly.


Make sure the kick panel clips into place behind the brake pedal. There’s also a clip above the foot rest panel.


Connect the Quadlock adapter.


Connect the adapter to the old antenna cable and the yellow Fakra.


Connect all wiring to the RNS-E unit. Push it into place, but not all the way in. You need to make sure that everything works, and that the wiring behind is tucked safely away.


PIN entry screen. The radio code (PIN) can be retrived using i.e. ebay-sellers. Just send your serial# - and you will get your PIN emailed ($12). I still need to code my unit for my car to accept it. This can be done via VCDS (w/ license).


Sit back and enjoy the looks of your newly installed RNS-E unit!


Let me know your thoughts on this

Wouldn't it just be easier to just buy the proper console?

yeah, but this is free and looks the same.

Wow. Excellent DIY, nice job.

Isn't the AMI suppose to be for 2010+ RNS-E models?

from the picture, one can tell it's a 2nd-gen unit from the 'media' button; 1st-gen units have 'CD/SD' (NA) or 'CD/TV' (RoW). Also, the display is clearly higher resolution than the 1st gen unit

are 2nd gen plug and ply in 1st gen harness? I would go for the AMI interface for the HDD addition possibility

same harness, connections, etc for both

Went to do this and completely dropped the ball on needing a 'normal' climate control... Its now just hanging out pretty much in contact with my shifter until the used unit arrives. And I dont have the radio code I thought I had...
Overall pretty smooth.

I guess it depends on what you are looking for. You can definitely get way more features from an aftermarket units for similar pricing. The RNS-E MK I is a dinosaur in technology sense, and the MKII isnt that far ahead either. But nothing fits the interior better. And to me, thats worth more than having google maps, better bluetooth capabilities and video, etc. I might try the raspberry pi route eventually, but for now the RNS-E gets the job done.

late B6/B7 HVAC uses a relay, early B6 does not. The model # you posted is listed as a B7 A4/S4/RS4 part, and your symptoms are the same as when I installed a B7 HVAC in my B6, so I'd assume it needs the relay. You can use my writeup as a reference on the differences between the two: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...-in-early-B6-s

No you need a B7 specific HVAC heater. You can reuse your old one, and swap the face plate. Interesting to hear the B7 came with a single din option. That is news to me.

yes, if you use a TT or A3 unit, the faceplate must be swapped

reviving an old thread , i am doing this in my B7 it came originally with the single concert as yours .i have the cage and the adapter but haven't bought the climate control unit yet. is it possible to make my single din climate control unit work with the swap ?